I’ve been in Ghana for going on three weeks, spending a week traveling through Togo and it’s already been an amazing experience. So I thought it would be a fun and interesting conversation to talk about my first impressions as an African American in West Africa.
- In America we take for granted the beautiful shades of dark(er) brown. Travelling through Sokode and Bassar in North Togo, places that are not easily accessible to non-Togolese, I’ve never felt so melanin deficient. Every one is glorious shades of deep dark brown, with various hues of purple, yellow, red undertones. It’s just a random thought that in Western media, the color scale for deeper browns trails off without any consideration to the undertones and hues.
- It is very easy to see that African Americans are (largely) descendants of West African slaves. I don’t know where folks came up with the whole Hebrew Israelite theory, but sure maybe Israel was originally the Gold Coast and the white folks relocated the holy land to an area of lesser melanin cause white folks love to Columbus. One of the first things that struck me was how many Ghanians and Togoless people look like people I know in the States. Like your memaw that loves to listen to Tom Joyner every morning or the uncles that are excited to go to white linen parties so they can line dance to Frankie Beverly + Maze. You’ve got cousins in Accra.
- While there’s a conversation to be had about the lack of coverage West Africa receives in the news., part of that conversation needs to consider how the governments and lack of infrastructure cause perpetuate the lack of coverage. Most of West Africa is compromised of centralized governments, with their capitals on the southern coast line with a major shift and breakdown in the overlooked northern regions. Soon as you leave Togo’s capital Lome, there is a significant shift downward in the infrastructure, that impacts access to everything from running water to technology, leaving internet and cell phone service scant. On top of that, the national language is French, with most people learning French in school (which is not free), so local or indigenous languages are much more common. There isn’t just one or three that are spoken, but a mixture depending on the ethnic groups of that village. Think about who is doing all that translating to ensure the facts make it to the right sources and news outlets can fact check their sources in a country that’s government is not to keen on the freedom of speech or press.
In the villages of Togo, I experienced my first moments of White woman guilt. Feeling quite guilty that my first inclination was to want to help these people to have the same “luxuries” of living that I do in America, when in reality I have no clue what will actually make their lives holistically better. But to be in a village with no access to clean or running water/sewage, where the “pharmacy” consists of a box of ibuprofen, and this is where women are giving birth in a chair stirrup chair that I would balk at if I even had to have my pap smear on there….and there’s nothing I could do to better their situation. Nothing. It was just an overwhelming day of high emotions.
- Driving in West Africa is like Grand Theft Auto, and that’s putting it lightly. Brace yourself. Traffic laws that are enforced do not exist, they’re just a concept you dream about as you pray that you make it through this mountain in North Togo safely. I did not think it would ever be possible for me to appreciate the concept of speeding tickets. In Togo, where there is a paved road, it’s a paved road with one line down the middle, but folks just drive where they want. Once we got outside of Lome, traffic lights were a nope and in Accra, dumsor – where electricity is cut off in the city, just cancels out that whole concept. Motorcycles are popular, especially in N. Togo, and cars drive dangerously close to them, while no one flinches. Ah and the language that is honking of the horn, people use their horns in place of seat belts. Honking your horn prevents accidents, I guess
- Eating out, is one of the most frustratingly hilarious experiences of Ghana. It’s not just half the menu that you can’t order, but placing your order and an hour later they tell you their out of something — with attitude, oh girl, did you not this experience is a privilege? Don’t have the nerve to be a vegetarian or a non-seafood eater. When you explain to someone at the beginning of your meal what you do not eat and they still serve you a plate of meat, then insist “oh vegetarian? so not even chicken or pork?” Just laugh, really, laugh your ass off, cause there’s joy in this experience. It’s always a fun time. Just stick with the fufu or banku.
- Speaking of food, kelwele and red-red are all I need in this life of sin. Still trying to figure out if that’s a balanced diet and if I can lose weight only consuming those two dishes? Plantain every day, until I die.
- If you’re from the Americas or Europe or have spent substantial time living there, dating in Ghana is absolutely no better than dating in the Western world. This deserves it’s own separate post. But to go to Ghana to find a man thing… yeah girl unless you want to get your groove back like Stella with a bottom or someone swindling their way into a green card…it’s not looking so bright. Just think, would you date someone who has never left the state they were born in? Oh but there are plenty of gorgeous men here, emanating hoeness unabashedly. On the flip side, Accra is too small for you to revel in much if any thotful activity. So discretion and tread lightly if you dare.
- Accra can be expensive, especially if you have an American accent and don’t speak Ga or Twi. But magically if someone is with you and they speak a local language things get substantially cheaper. For that and a few other reasons, traveling to West Africa requires connecting with a local, will make your experience so much cheaper and safer. Though getting clothes made out here is the best thing ever…just wait for my haul after this trip. Got a whole new wardrobe for under $200.
- Lastly, I’m connected to more people in Accra then I was in Houston. How does this happen? Well, part of the appeal of Accra to African Americans, is that for the most part there’s been favorable political relations between the USA and Ghana, lending itself to more Ghanians migrating to America or at least pursuing higher education in the States. There’s also a large Black US Diplomat constituency in the Greater Accra region. Also, it’s very refreshing to easily connect with intelligent people who have a genuine interest in the world around, especially to pertaining to the African diaspora and how the politics of sub-saharan Africa impacts us all. This is how you learn. Even sitting at dinner and having a casual conversation about Tanzania’s new president Magufuli on some non-pretentious shit, is great brain food that’s much harder to come by, without someone asking why do you know this or care, in the States.
I will definitely be doing a follow up post on traveling as a tourist to West Africa, cause girl, it is not easy. But with a heightened interest in Black millennial travel, it’s worth having a discussion on in hopes of making it easier. Puerto Rico and Dominican Republic can’t get all the travel shine.
Comment below and let me know if there are any other topics specific to my travels in West Africa. You can follow me on Twitter, Facebook, Snapchat and Instagram to see my travels.